Saturday, January 27, 2007

Where to go for Churrasco (Brazilian BBQ) in Hanoi?

Au Lac do Brazil (6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh), serves an authentic Brazilian churrasco (Brazilian BBQ) near the Temple of Literature (Van Mieu) in the heart of Hanoi. For those who have never tried a churrasco, it is (and I quote from their web page), "a buffet of charcoal grilled meats [pork, beef, lamb, chicken] brought to you at your table on long skewers. Tender, hot slices are carved right in front of you by 'passadors,' waiters armed with meat, long knives and friendly smiles." In otherwords, it is a carnivore's dream come true.

Suggestions:

(1) go for the buffet and not the menu items as the buffet costs only alittle bit more;

(2) as you will fill up rapidly:
  • skip lunch;
  • go light on the salad starter and other pre-made vegetable dishes (that is not what diners come here for);
  • go light on the bread, if at all;
  • take bite sized portions of the skewered meat brought out early, otherwise you will be full in 15 minutes;
  • go light on cheaper meats like the chicken and pork (with the exception of the grilled ham with pineapple, which is exceptional) even though they taste great ;
  • don't bother with the bacon wrapped meats;
  • go for the best cuts of beef (i.e., Picanha, which is shaped like the letter 'C');
(3) ask for the feijoada, a potpourri of black bean and pig parts served over rice, early as otherwise you will be too full to try this favorite Brazilian national dish;


(4) and, enjoy the whole meal with capirinha, a Brazilian cocktail made up of lime, sugar and cachasa, a strong liquor made from sugar cane.

Price: 380,000VND (USD24) for buffet and caipirinha cocktail. A bit pricey for the Hanoi market, but well worth it. Outstanding service and fancy decor. The meats are grilled just right - lightly browned at the edges, medium rare at the center - over an open pit of fire. Same diner would cost 80USD in New York City.

Publish

How to take a Xe Om (motorcycle taxi)?

For getting around the Hanoi, there is nothing better than the Xe Om (motorcycle taxi) for zipping around traffic. My advice before getting on a Xe Om: (A) chose one with a good motorcycle (ie., one made by one of the 4 major motorcycle manufacturers in Vietnam - Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, or SYM); (B) chose a middle-aged driver (too young and they may drive too fast, too old and they may not maneuver as well around Hanoi's crazy traffic); (C) chose a driver with white white eyes (this is to make sure they haven't been drinking). Witnessing collisions on the streets of Hanoi are all to common so be careful. Many streets have no traffic lights!

The price of a Xe Om ride is not rocket science. Although supposedly around 10,000VND (.60USD) per 3km I
normally give 15,000VND (.90USD). That should be enough to cover travel within the city. Also, I'd advise negotiating the price first as Xe Om drivers will often ask for more than whatever you give them.

Thursday, January 25, 2007

Where to go for Lamb in Hanoi?

Dung Rau Lau De Quan (87 Lang Ha, Ba Dinh): There are already excellent posts on where to get good 'pho', the national noodle soup of Vietnam, on the blogosphere (ie., see stickyrice). Here, I introduce a somewhat different dining experience - the lamb grill eatery. A popular such eatery with locals as well as my co-workers is on Lang Ha (steps away from the Fortuna Hotel). It is almost always crowded during dinner time, esp. during the winter, and for good reasons - the food is outstanding and cheap. But don't expect comfort. Expect to crouch on red/blue plastic stools around a small metal table. And, sweating profusely. Suggested menu:

Grilled Lamb Meat: comes in generous portions with the usual assortment of herbs, condiment (salt, pepper, lime, chili and pepper) and sauces. For a hassle free experience, have the establishment grill the meat for you - it's simpler. Price: 25,000VND (2.5USD).

Lamb Sausage: ground sheepmeats and fat mixed with assorted herbs and spices in non-synthetic (I assume) casing. Calorie count unknown, but truly tasty.

Sheep Foot: try the sheep foot, a delicacy which is of limited availablity. If you come late (ie., after 7:00pm), they will likely be sold out. Personally, I'm not crazy about foot as food as there isn't much meat on the feet. Price: 8,000-15,000VND (.50-.90USD) depending on size.

Lamb Hotpot: finish with a hearty hotpot of lamb meat, tofu, sheep liver, bean curd skin, assorted vegetables and noodles that diners cook in a broth flavored with Chinese herbal medicine. Price: 60,000-70,000VND (4USD) 2 sizes with the larger version featured above.

Price: Should come to around 50,000VND (3USD) - 100,000VND (6USD) per person (including one or two beers) if eating as a group and sharing a hotpot.

Lastly: (1) go when its cooler (Nov. to Feb.) to avoid grilling and stewing in the heat. It really matters for a good dining experience; (2) go with a group of people so you can try different dishes and share the hotpot; and, (3) dine early. Don't be part of the 'second wave' as (a) the dishes are cleaner; and, (b) you can probably sample the sheep foot=)


Tuesday, January 23, 2007

Where to swim in Hanoi?

I work and live in a factory 30 minutes drive from Hanoi. We work mostly six days a week. By the 7th day, I'm off to the pool to relax and do a few laps to clear my mind.

Having surveyed the swimming pools around Hanoi, here are my suggestions:

(1) Hanoi Horison Hotel (40 Cat Linh Street), 2nd fl. (pic 1) - Beautiful outdoors pool for lounging and swimming. Open to the public. Entrance fee, USD 12. Use of sauna, whirlpool and gym included. Swim here from March until October when it is warm outside. Note: pool is oval shaped and not that deep, so not perfect, but usually sufficient for those who want to swim a few laps.


(2) Sofitel Plaza Hanoi (1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh District), 4th fl. (pic 2) - Beautiful rectangular indoor pool where swimmers can go all year round. Use of sauna, whirlpool and gym included as well. Come here only when it is too cold to swim outside as the entrance fee of USD 23.10 is a bit steep (USD 231 for monthly pass).

As for the other pools around Hanoi: outside pool at Sofitel Metropole is not open to the public; large outside pool at the Daewoo Hotel is priced similarly with Horison, but too curvy and shallow to swim in, but fine if you just lounge; and, the Army Hotel pool, while very cheap, is not suited for those who would like to do some real swimming.